These factors are a major guiding force in the methods and motivations at Gargoyle. I aim to be able to provide a detailed provenance for all garments in the Origin range, and to move towards sustainability in Costume garments.
Materials - I try to use recycled and recovered fabrics where possible, and where new materials are required that they are sourced responsibly. This means that I seek out fabrics, threads and other materials from sustainable sources with minimal environmental impact at all stages of manufacture. This includes fairtrade and organic cottons, and lower impact fabrics such as linen, bamboo and hemp. I have recently found a source of organic cotton thread, and am looking into fairtrade rubber elastic and velcro from recycled plastic.
It is not always possible to source sustainable materials, particularly for costuming where the budget and/or physical characteristics required by the client can be prohibitive. Where there is negligible difference in cost and performance, I will use the most sustainable and ethical materials possible. Where cost is an issue the decision of course rests with the client.
Much of the fabric and other materials I have in stock have been obtained from the hoards and collections of relatives and friends, and some of it is more than 30 years old. I also obtain fabrics from charity shops and other 'used' sources, and offer alterations, repairs and redesigns to reduce the need for new materials and wastage of existing ones.
Fairtrade - I believe this is a key part of the sustainability of materials sourcing. Many of the new materials listed above are from fairtrade sources, including farming, processing and artisan manufacture of fabrics.
It is also important in terms of garment manufacture. The current prevalence of cheap clothing reflects a lack of fair pay for workers internationally. As a small manufacturer in Britain, I charge a fair rate for the work I do, and where finished items are made by others the same applies. Due to the cheap clothing available from unsustainable international mass-production, this will mean that my garments will be more expensive, but I aim to keep them at a level where they can be an reasonable ethical choice, not a luxury item.
Should I be in a position in the future to require garments to be manufactured in larger quantities, this will be sourced in such a way as to provide a fair wage for the work done.
Ethics of Individuality - Both the Costume and Origin areas of Gargoyle are based around the principle that individuals should be able to obtain garments which they want rather than having to choose a 'best fit' from what is commonly available.
Quality - should be such that garments will last and once no longer required by the purchaser could be passed on. Clothing should not be disposable, and should be robust enough to serve its purpose over a long period.
Fit - should reflect the needs of the individual in terms of body shape and desired tailoring, not the changing fashions of either.
Choice - is a personal matter and everyone should be able to express themselves in terms of style and ethical sourcing rather than having to compromise. Whilst there are ethical garment manufacturers out there, they are often limited in style and/or sold as luxury garments. There should be clothing available for everyday, work and formal occasions which people want to wear.
Accessibility - Whilst costs are necessarily higher than for mass-market high street clothing, I aim to keep prices reasonable. Our parents and grandparents expected to buy thoughtfully and buy garments which would last. By returning to these principles it should be possible for those who wish to buy sustainable and ethical clothing which they positively want to wear.
